Dutch Croquettes and Bitterballen

This savory meat filled pastry is a favorite specialty from my Dutch heritage.  I would yearn for them all year long but my mother would only make them around the holidays.  When I discovered them everywhere in Amsterdam it seemed so unfair I had to learn to make them myself!

The recipe is a compilation of my mothers instructions, and those of a five-star restaurant in Fort Collins, Colorado where Bitterballen was served as an appetizer with a spicy mustard sauce at the classy bar.  After dancing in my Klumpens (wooden shoes) on the bar enough times, the Dutch owner finally gave me the secrets I needed!


Allow plenty of time to make, and prepare at least a day ahead

Shopping List

Chicken, boneless skinless breasts (or thighs) 5-6 lb's (traditionally Veal)

Butter, 1 lb

Whipping Cream 2 cups

Chicken Broth 4 cups

Gelatin 1 small box 

Dijon Mustard, such as Grey Poupon

Ground White Pepper (good quality) several Tablespoons

Nutmeg, at least 3T

Knorr Chicken seasoning powder (can find in Mexican section)

Flour, pastry type or less glutenous as possible

Dry Sherry 2 cups

Maggie (a Dutch seasoning, can be found in the Mexican food section also)

1 bunch of fresh Parsley (for Croquettes)
Tabasco or Cheyenne Powder (for Bitterballen)
Eggs 1-2 dozen
Club Crackers
3 French Breads (dried out) or quality unseasoned croutons or bread crumbs

Part One, Making the Meat Filling

Melt a few tablespoons of butter in a large skillet, frying a few pieces of chicken at a time, to a caramelized brown, while seasoning each side with salt, white pepper and nutmeg, setting aside to cool and repeating the process  

Bring the cream to almost a boil (watching carefully) in a medium, heavy saucepan, turn down and simmer about 20 minutes or until the cream is reduced to about half the amount.  

Meanwhile, in a small heavy saucepan or skillet make a Roux by melting 3/4 cup butter and adding 1 cup flour, cook on medium stirring most of the time, until lightly browned.  Set aside.

In a very large pot, bring to boil
2 cups dry sherry 
3 of the 4 cups chicken broth 
1/2 cup dijon mustard
1 Tablespoon of nutmeg 
2 T Maggie seasoning 
1 Tablespoon Knorr chicken seasoning powder (or salt) 

Turn down to a simmer add the chicken pieces, add water or broth to cover, simmering on med-low for about 20-30 minutes, remove chicken and cool

Meanwhile, in a cup whisk together, then let rest to dissolve
1 cup of the chicken broth
2 packages of gelatin

Now add about 2/3’s of the Roux to the large pan of broth, heat through well and add the gelatin mixture stir well

It should resemble a smooth, thick and tasty gravy and meat mixture  

It needs to be thicker than the final product, because you will still be adding the cream

Once chilled in the freezer it will be roll-able; but beware not to make it so thick that it is not appealing.  

Add more Roux to the mixture thicken it (heating well to incorporate the Roux if necessary again)

Overheating after this point can ruin it, only heat on low

Mince the cooled chicken to very tiny, shredded bits
Add chicken to the broth 
Add the reduced cream to the broth, stir gently
Heat through again on low temperature and don't over-stir

Taste and keep adjusting, adding more of any, if needed:
Maggie seasoning
Dijon mustard (being cautious that overuse makes it taste sour)
Knorr chicken seasoning powder or/ salt 

Finally carefully stir in as an option:

for Croquettes, 2/3 cup or more of fresh parsley, minced
for Bitterballen, Hot Tabasco or 1-3 teaspoons of cheyenne pepper to taste (spicy)

Chill in freezer overnight

Part Two, Rolling Into a Pastry

Shape into little 1x3" logs (croquette style) or 1-2” balls (Bitterballen) setting aside a plateful at a time to re-chill if necessary, keeping the rest of the mixture chilled in the freezer, mixture must stay very cold to work with

Alternate rolling in:

1. Flour, lightly
2. Eggs, prepare a dozen whisked eggs with a few Tablespoons of water
3. Ground club crackers, smashed in a ziploc-bag into fine crumbs
4. Egg mixture, again
5. Ground bread into crumbs 

Rolling Tips: 
Keep logs unstacked and put back in freezer immediately after rolling in flour to harden somewhat before rolling in eggs etc...
It is quickest to roll in a group with others passing the rolls 
Use pie pans or other shallow flat plates, have two egg dishes for less mess
Use several pairs of disposable plastic gloves
Gently placing in ziplocs to freeze 

Keep frozen and pull out the amount you wish to use, several hours before use, thaw in refrigerator

Deep Frying

Submerse to cover in oil heated to about 350-375.  Depending on the shallowness of the oil, cook a few at a time, as too many will cool the oil off  Peanut oil works well for deep-frying

(tip --if they are still cool in the middle a few seconds in the microwave can remedy in a pinch)

Serve with any good mustard sauce